This jacket is from the debut solo collection of Bill Gibb for the Fall 1972. In the book, Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy, they note that the theme of the collection was the natural world and you can see that in this suit. The book quotes fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes saying that "this is Bill Gibbs great day... for the first time showing a collection all his own. It marks the beginning of his career as a designer of the jet set." Twiggy said to Gibbs backstage "they were incredible, I loved every one, I want them all... is it possible to have one to wear tonight?". At this moment in Bill Gibbs history he was the star of fashion set. The jacket is spectacular and I love that versions are held in the permanent collection of museums. We also included several references where this or similar pieces were shot that season.

The jacket has an incredible cut to it. The collar is exaggerated and wide. The sleeves are amazing. They are full with a slight cap at the top of the shoulder and then narrow down to the wrist. The cuffs have a small split up the middle and are held closed with a metal button. The jacket has a seam set just above the natural waistline and it buttons to close above that with flower embossed silver metal buttons. Vertical panels sit all the way around the bodice from front to back. Silver painted chrysanthemums sit on either side of the buttons and a double panel of the same runs down the back. On each side of the bodice is a bee done in the same muted silver paint on brown leather and these have been cut out and applied onto the jacket. There are four of these in total, two at the front and two at the back. The bee went on to become one of his signatures. Those painted designs were all done by Sally MacLachlan. The lower part of the jacket is equally as fabulous. It skims over the hips to flare out to be quite full by the time it reaches the hem. There are eight panels of leather that have been sewn together. Each panel was painted with trailing vines of flowers running down their lengths. And there are pockets at the front! It is fantastic. Presents as excellent condition with a couple of small notes below.

Fully lined in a light taupe silky rayon. The jacket buttons to close at the front. Hand finishes. The leather of the jacket has a slight stiffened feel, that all of these particular jackets seem to have as they age. There is some slight wear and scuffing to the edges here and there and on the top of one shoulder. There is minor wear and marks on the lining. Three of the front button loops have been reattached at one of their ends. The jacket was cleaned but there is still a slight vintage smell to it. Priced with all taken into consideration balanced with its rarity. It is an incredible collectors piece. Tagged a vintage UK 10

Sleeves: approx 23.5" and 16" around the upper arm
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: approx 186" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist at seam: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 42" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4866

Reference Photos: (1) 1972 Bill Gibb Coat in the V&A Collection.  /  (2) Bill Gibb Coat in the Collection at MUDE - Museu do Design e da Moda.  /  (3) Models in clothing by Bill Gibb, The Daily Telegraph, December 1972.  /  (4) Model in Bill Gibb for Vogue, September 1972.  /  (5) The Cover of "Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy" by Iain Webb.  /  (6) Vogue, September 1972.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.